Claymore: The Blade Carrier

Probably the hardest part of the Claymore cosplay was the backpiece: the sword carrier. Options to make it ranged from EVA foam to learning how to create it in a 3D program and print to investing in vacu-forming. This was our first cosplay so I definitely have to say we vetoed vacu-forming - even though the one example with it clearly was top quality. In the end, we ended up using expanding foam and paper maché to build the backpiece.

I started by taking the outline/general shape of the backpiece and cutting it out on EVA foam. Knowing that I needed the cape to be directly connected to it and would require a good amount of support, I cut it along its longest part - through the "wings" - and added a 1/4" diameter PVC pipe. On top of that, I created a 3D "guide" with a cross section of EVA foam on top. While contact cement is the recommended glue, I used E600 to attach the foam to the PVC and each other. Once dry, I used a can of Great Stuff Expanding Insulating Foam. The best results I got were from layering: that is, apply a small amount, clean the applicator with acetone, close the applicator, and wait at least 1 hour. Monitoring the expansion of the foam, I would then use the spray to build up the shape more. The expanding foam did not expand as much as I would have liked or as I had been told but it got the job done and kept it light weight.

Then, at least 24 hours later, I carved it into the general shape I wanted. The easiest tip to make a dome? Keep cutting edges until there are no more corners. It's easier said than done. Certainly, after making three, I can tell you I didn't make a single perfect dome. One certainly came close but not all the way. Once I had the shape mostly the way I wanted it, cutting down to those guides I made with the foam, I sanded it the rest of the way. Note of caution: respirator is a great tool. Don't inhale the particles. This foam is so light-weight that particles will fly up at you. And stick to you.

If you try to cut too early, the wet foam underneath will stick to and possible ruin your blade. Also, even using acetone when wet, I've had great trouble - unsuccessful trouble - getting it out of clothes. Spraying all the foam at once rather than doing layers seemed to me to be the strongest guarantee that even after 24 hours, the inside would still be wet. Not just wet, but forcing its way through the porous openings you've made.

Speaking of, the expanding foam is very porous. For the 3 separate attempts, I tried to fill what I could with my can of foam. For 1, I could not get the foam to come out. The bottle had sealed itself, which is pretty common. What I couldn't fill with foam or what foam did a terrible job with, I used Elmer brand color changing wood filler.

Here is where the expanding foam being dry played the most importance: paper mache. The foam was so porous that not even plasti-dip or plaster could seal it. So I had to use paper mache to get it to a sealable point. I used modge-podge glue, a high quality glue, so I used more water than glue. (The lower quality your glue, the higher your ratio of glue to water). But again, the foam is so porous, the water soaks right through. Expanding foam, btw, expands faster/sets faster when exposed to water. So quess what happened when the insides way deep down were still wet? That's right. It tried to find somewhere to go. For my first and last one, I rushed them. So when I got to this part, the foam at the very inside decided it was easier to go down. Turning the back piece over to look at my flat back, only to find out.... not so flat. Which, as we need it flat for attaching it to the costume, not so great of news. (*NOTE* it was too late for me but I later found out standard procedure for paper maché is to first cover the base in masking tape. Unknown whether this would have fixed my issues or not)

Anyway, did 3 to 5 layers of paper mache and sanded it. I did not have special paper, only news paper, and perhaps that was to my detriment. Because afterwards, covering with a sandable filler and primer, you can still tell it has been paper mached. Even after four layers, a layer of plastidip, the paint, and an enamel top coat, you can tell it's paper mache. I also feel like I lost control over the smoothness of it with paper mache. However, I am at a loss of how to improve it. If you have a better way, feel free to let me know!

After all those layers and 4mm of craft foam (just a double layer of 2mm foam) to make up the blade "slots" on the carrier, the back piece was done and still relatively light weight. The layers of paper and filler and paint added more weight than everything else. But it still had to also hold up a long cape. The cape we attached with embroidery pins although I feel like my absolute ideal would be to use curtain hooks and to dremel holes for them to slide into through the PVC pipe. The decision for attachment became clear: we needed a harness.

We needed to pick a harness that would not detract from the outfit. In Claymore, the back plate the carrier attaches to is sewn into/part of the outfit. But there was no way we could trust the outfit to maintain integrity with a simple harness. So we needed one that we could hide. We went for more attachments than an H harness could provide with one I'll call a delta harness for lack of a better term. The back plate I made out of EVA foam and dremeled a groove to accomidate the PVC pipe. Slits were cut for the nylon webbing to weave through the back piece to hold it flat against the back. Using E600, attached standard velcro to the plate. Perhaps a little unprofessional, I used a dot of acrylic paint on the velcro before lining it up with the backpiece. I did this so I could tell where on the backpiece to attach the "negative side" of the velcro without the pieces sticking together and ruining the glue.

The cape is still pinned to help keep its shape until the last ironing before its convention debut but here's the full view of it for now.